Baccalà alla Vicentina is more than just a dish — it’s a reflection of a land, its people, and their deep-rooted culinary wisdom. It stands as one of the many quiet masterpieces of Italian cuisine.

Tucked away in the gentle hills of Veneto, where cooking is both memory and craft, there exists a dish that best captures the ingenuity of Vicenza’s gastronomy: baccalà alla Vicentina. Though the main ingredient — dried stockfish — may at first seem rough and uninviting, it transforms into a delicacy in the hands of those who respect tradition. The secret lies in a centuries-old recipe made of patient steps, quiet care, and rich, evolving flavors.

Preparing baccalà alla Vicentina isn’t simply a matter of following a list of ingredients. It’s a ritual. Families and neighbors debate over the best techniques, swap secrets, and take pride in their personal touches. Still, one reference point holds steady: the original recipe protected by the Venerabile Confraternita del Bacalà alla Vicentina, headquartered in the town of Sandrigo.

Each cook adds their own flair — more or less onion, full-fat milk or a lighter version, garlic left to soften or removed halfway through. Yet two rules remain sacred: the oil must be extra virgin, generous and of the finest quality, and once the fish begins to cook, it must never be stirred. Only by respecting these rules does the magic of “pipare” happen — a gentle, slow simmer that coaxes out every nuance of taste.

Traditional Recipe for Baccalà alla Vicentina
Serves 12

Ingredients

1 kg dried stockfish, thoroughly tenderized
250–300 g onions
½ liter extra virgin olive oil
3 salt-cured anchovies (or sardines)
½ liter whole milk
All-purpose flour, as needed
50 g grated aged Grana cheese
Chopped parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Soak the fish
Place the stockfish in cold water and soak for 2 to 3 days, changing the water every 4 hours to rehydrate it properly.

Clean and cut
Split the fish lengthwise, remove the central spine and any small bones, then cut it into evenly sized pieces.

Prepare the base
Slice the onions and sauté them gently in a glass of olive oil with the chopped anchovies until soft. Turn off the heat and stir in the parsley.

Assemble the dish
Dredge the fish pieces lightly in flour and arrange them snugly in a baking dish or wide pot. Pour the onion mixture over them, add milk, Grana cheese, salt, and pepper. Then top with enough olive oil to cover the fish.

Slow cook
Simmer very gently for about 4½ hours. Do not stir. Instead, occasionally rotate the pan to ensure even cooking. This slow bubbling — or pipare, as they call it in Vicenza — is what makes the dish unique.

Optional resting time
Let the dish rest for 12 to 24 hours before serving. It tastes even better after the flavors have had time to meld.

To serve
Warm through and plate with slices of golden polenta — the classic pairing.